Transkei 6/3/05
I am currently in Coffee Bay, a place named after a Portuguese shipwreck deposited coffee beans resulting in the plant growing here for a number of years. Coffee Bay is on the Wild Coast in the Transkei Region of South Africa. Transkei was once a so-called homestate for black people under the aparthaid government. I spent most of my day today in a short wetsuit surfing, I finally managed to stand up and very basic manuvering skills. That being said I am exhausted. I came here yesterday evening after most of the day being in transit. I passed by Nelson Mandela's home on the way to Umtata where I caught the shuttle to coffee bay. This is by far the poorest region I have seen thus far on my trip. Most of the people live in mud houses with thatch roofs. 90% of the students don't make it to the equivilant of high school for us in the states. for one year of school it costs about a thousand bucks for one student. Right as I arrived in town some people coerced me into setting out for a sundowner. This sundowner involved driving out to an abandoned golf course, past the former clubhouse and onto what I was told was the 8th green. Heading in we passed a boy who couldn't have weighed more than 80 pounds chasing fully grown cattle. All these cows had to do was breathe on him and he would've gone tumbling off, but they ran as if it was a leopard at their backs.
I spent the past few days in hogsback, a picturesque town in the mountains. 2 days in a row I was up in time to catch the sunrise coming over the mountains. my first afternoon and evening there I did i short hike to the "big tree," rather anti-climactic cause i was expecting a huge tree, but I guess it would've been thus named if that were the case. The day after that two ladies and i climbed the number 2 Hog, I beleive it's about 1,300 meters tall, somewhere thereabouts. We set of to climb Hog 1 but a really bad map and us going way out of the way entised us to shoot for number two. All in all I think it was about 29 kilometers. I managed to bruise something in my left heel, and that has been giving me grief for the past few days. Hogsback is known for it's scenery and waterfalls. Words can't give it due justice, and my pictures probably won't either. The back yard of the hostel ended in a 100 ft cliff leading into dense rainforest. Just in case you can't pick on the fact that I really liked it there. It is my favorite place thus far.
I really like all the comments people have been posting. Mrs. Koch, your comment took a while to decypher, I said that my German had improved but that was from a truely deplorable state. I'll be in Coffee Bay until sunday cause my transportation won't run on saturdays, and I wanted to surf today. I think I'll hike out to the hole in the wall tomorrow and maybe do some cliff jumping. Keep it real, I'm thinking of you all.

7 Comments:
What, pray tell, is a "sundowner?" A cook-out? A drink at the 19th hole? Who were the people who "coerced" you? Fellow travelers? Locals? Professional sundowners?
Inquring minds want to know.
You are in an area where the locals speak xhosa, the famed click language. I have heard Bill LaPointe, a guy who was a missionary over there, speak his version of it, but it must be fascinating to hear it for real.
We have had lively weather here in Colorado. A big hailstorm yesterday dropped softball-size hail out on the plains. Nothing in Boulder, luckily, just a bit of rain. I have always wondered if one could take a bat out into a hailstorm like that and get in some batting practice.
Keep the accounts coming. I'd like to see you write about engaging some of the locals who do not make their living from tourists.
Stay safe.
Your most immediate ancestor
Hey Hey Walker,
I hope your having fun! I know you are. We miss you back in B-Town. I'm having fun reading about your adventures. I can't wait till you are reading about mine. He He He. When are you coming home? Okay well keep up the good work and have a blast. Be safe.
Meg
Hey Walker!
Wow - I can't wait to see some of the pictures you are taking. Your updates are unbelievable! Bungee Jumping, Rainforests, Mountains, Oceans, new cultures and the real world. Unbelievable. Thanks for keeping the updates coming!
Corinne:)
Hey Walker,
Chilly day here, about 50 degrees and raining. Lit candles in the living room to warm the ambience on this gloomy, gray day.
As you can imagine, it is a perfect day for inside projects. Dad and I are resting after spending the morning cleaning and sealing the new shower (me) and tearing out the toilet, sink, wood from the walls and the floor (Jeff). We are missing your brawn right now. The sink and toilet went out in the trash already, though we contemplated for a peco second or two of using them as yard ornaments.
Since you left, we have had a lot of rain so the grass is fairly leaping out of the ground. The irises have huge blooms on them. I cut 2 stalks of purple irises and 1 mauve colored stem and put them in a vase on the dining room table. Their sweet fragrance perfumes the dining room, kitchen and living room.
It was great to hear your voice on the phone today. As of Monday you will have been gone a month. What extraordinary experiences you must be having. I would love to hear the click language spoken and to have seen the young dancing girls perform. It sounds like you are doing well.
Look forward to seeing your next posting. xoxox Mom
Isn't the South African coast known for white shark attacks? Are you really surfing in shark-infested waters?! Be well. Love, Mom
Man, you sound like you are having so much fun. You should buy a piece of jewlery or something while you are in Africa. I bought a silver bracelet last year when I was in Turkey and I smiled every day when I put it on.
I am so incredibly jealous, everything sounds so amazing. It's awesome that you get to have such an amazing travel experience. I hope all is well and you are still having an amazing time. - Sarah B.
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